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Nature Vs. Nurture: Hard To Measure Farmers' Impact On Nutritional Values

In his aquaponics greenhouse, Iowa farmer Jeff Hafner grows tomatoes, lettuce and other produce year-round, though he has to adjust the varieties as the indoor temperature and humidity change.
Amy Mayer
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Harvest Public Media
In his aquaponics greenhouse, Iowa farmer Jeff Hafner grows tomatoes, lettuce and other produce year-round, though he has to adjust the varieties as the indoor temperature and humidity change.

No matter how far fruits or vegetables travel, whether they鈥檙e grown organically or conventionally, they鈥檙e packed with vitamins, minerals and other necessary nutrients. The men and women in the fields try to grow foods with an eye to boosting the health factor, but researchers say it鈥檚 hard to measure the precise impact.

Consider the orange, a fruit high in vitamin C, which boosts the body鈥檚 immune system. One from a tree in Florida and another of the same variety grown in California won鈥檛 have identical values of the scurvy-fighting vitamin.

鈥淭here's going to be slight differences in the amount of vitamin C by the cultivar, the type of fruit that it is, where it's grown, how long it's been on the store shelves,鈥� Iowa State University food science and human nutrition professor Ruth MacDonald says.

Iowa State food science and human nutrition professor Ruth MacDonald says looking at people's weekly diets, not the nutritional content of one particular food, is how a nutritionist evaluates whether people are getting what they need.
Credit Amy Mayer / Harvest Public Media
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Harvest Public Media
Iowa State food science and human nutrition professor Ruth MacDonald says looking at people's weekly diets, not the nutritional content of one particular food, is how a nutritionist evaluates whether people are getting what they need.

The differences might even be significant, but she says, 鈥渋t's really what you eat on a weekly basis that really makes the most impact.鈥� MacDonald, who鈥檚 also an interim senior associate dean, adds it鈥檚 鈥渘ot one single nutrient in one piece of fruit at a time.鈥�

It鈥檚 also really hard to make comparisons because there are so many variables on a farm and not a lot of public or private research money available to study nutritional variation among varieties.

Breeders鈥� choice

Plant breeders and farmers tend to look at growing foods with specific qualities in mind.

鈥淭hey usually check for acidity, sugar content, soluble solids, lycopene,鈥� North Carolina State University extension horticulture specialist Chris Gunter says.

But neither farmers nor consumers will pick something like a tomato for its lycopene 鈥� an antioxidant that gives tomatoes their red color, and is thought to have health benefits 鈥� alone.

Farmers will pick varieties they expect will grow well in their soil, with their climate conditions and their preferred fertilizers or pesticides.

But there鈥檚 the customer to keep in mind, too, who might want a soft or bright red or juicy tomato or one with lower acidity.

鈥淧eople are very interested in, does the whole fruit, consumption of this fruit, impact my health as a consumer?鈥� Gunter says.

From the farm

Iowa farmer Jeff Hafner says February is a particularly warm and humid time in the greenhouse, so he selects lettuces that can withstand the conditions.
Credit Amy Mayer / Harvest Public Media
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Harvest Public Media
Iowa farmer Jeff Hafner says February is a particularly warm and humid time in the greenhouse, so he selects lettuces that can withstand the conditions.

It鈥檚 a balance Jeff Hafner strives to achieve. He and his family run Early Morning Harvest, a diverse farm in Panora, Iowa.

With produce, he adheres to one guiding principle: 鈥淚f you don't think it looks right, throw it out. Chickens will eat it.鈥�

Those vegetables will contribute nutrients to the eggs they lay; Hafner says every aspect of the farm nurtures another.

鈥淭he more nutrients in the system, the healthier the system's going to be,鈥� says Hafner, 鈥渢he healthier the products are going to be, the more nutrient dense the products are going to be.鈥�

The chickens鈥� eggs, for example, tend to have dark yolks, which he says reflects the hens鈥� varied and nutrient-rich diet. He doesn鈥檛 know whether that makes the eggs healthier for people, but it鈥檚 one of the reasons customers come back, along with the cache of a 鈥渇arm-fresh egg鈥� and, Hafner adds, 鈥渦sually the taste, also.鈥�

Water from tilapia tanks circulates in the greenhouse at Jeff Hafner's farm, bringing beneficial bacteria to the crops growing without soil. The fish are also marketed, though he says they aren't a focus of the operation.
Credit Amy Mayer / Harvest Public Media
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Harvest Public Media
Water from tilapia tanks circulates in the greenhouse at Jeff Hafner's farm, bringing beneficial bacteria to the crops growing without soil. The fish are also marketed, though he says they aren't a focus of the operation.

His produce grows in an aquaponics greenhouse, where tanks of tilapia create water that鈥檚 rich with beneficial bacteria. He uses the water for his kale, lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers in a process he鈥檚 had to figure out over time.

鈥淢y first crop of lettuce in aquaponics was white,鈥� Hafner says, 鈥渂ecause it was built around nitrogen. As the system matured, the crops were healthier.鈥�

In general, he tries to be transparent about how he grows the food and lets consumers decide whether it meets their needs.

Adding nutrients

As important as farming practices can be, MacDonald says they鈥檙e not the most efficient way to increase a food鈥檚 healthfulness. That is best done in a lab or at a processing center, where iron is added back into flour and milk is fortified with vitamin D.

鈥淚t's easier to add the nutrients to the food after the fact,鈥� she says, 鈥渁nd it's more consistent and it's more bioavailable.鈥�

The USDA keeps two databases to help people understand where the nutrients are in their food: The lists the nutritional traits of a wide variety of foods, including fresh vegetables and specific brands of packaged foods. A separate database, the , compares which foods have provided Americans with which nutrients historically (spoiler alert: we鈥檙e eating more ).

The takeaway? Don鈥檛 skip the fruits and veggies, just eat a variety to get the best possible array of their benefits.

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Copyright 2020 Harvest Public Media. To see more, visit .

Amy Mayer is a reporter based in Ames. She covers agriculture and is part of the Harvest Public Media collaboration. Amy worked as an independent producer for many years and also previously had stints as weekend news host and reporter at WFCR in Amherst, Massachusetts and as a reporter and host/producer of a weekly call-in health show at KUAC in Fairbanks, Alaska. Amy鈥檚 work has earned awards from SPJ, the Alaska Press Club and the Massachusetts/Rhode Island AP. Her stories have aired on NPR news programs such as Morning Edition, All Things Considered and Weekend Edition and on Only A Game, Marketplace and Living on Earth. She produced the 2011 documentary Peace Corps Voices, which aired in over 160 communities across the country and has written for The New York Times, Boston Globe, Real Simple and other print outlets. Amy served on the board of directors of the Association of Independents in Radio from 2008-2015.