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In the NoCo

A barbecue historian champions a forgotten Colorado culinary hero

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Adrian Miller, a man wearing a black T-shirt and a peach-colored overshirt, leans against a wooden countertop outside of a restaurant.
Photo by Ryan Fila
/
Courtesy of Adrian Miller
"In his own right, Columbus B. Hill was a remarkable man who should be celebrated," says Denver author and barbecue historian Adrian Miller. "He represents a whole class of African American barbecuers who were never named or given the credit that they were due."

Columbus B. Hill was a pivotal figure in Colorado’s culinary history. He was a Black man originally from Missouri – and he was possibly in the late 1800s. His food was so good that it was served to thousands of people at official functions at the state Capitol.

But even among hardcore barbecue fans, very few people know his name. And his legacy wasn’t always well cared for. In 1923, Hill was buried in Denver’s Riverside Cemetery without a headstone.

Denver author and has been on a mission to change that.

He devoted an entire chapter to Columbus B. Hill in his book . He championed Hill’s into the American Royal Barbecue Hall of Fame in 2023. And last September, he honored Hill with a memorial dedication at his burial site.

Adrian Miller joined ITN’s Erin O’Toole a few days before that ceremony to share the story of the “best barbecue man in the West.”

We’re revisiting that conversation as part of In The NoCo’s new Holiday Book Club, which will continue each week this month.

KUNC's In The NoCo is a daily slice of stories, news, people and issues. It's a window to the communities along the Colorado Rocky Mountains. The show brings context and insight to the stories of the day, often elevating unheard voices in the process. And because life in Northern Colorado is a balance of work and play, we celebrate the lighter side of things here, too.
As the host of KUNC’s new program and podcast In the NoCo, I work closely with our producers and reporters to bring context and diverse perspectives to the important issues of the day. Northern Colorado is such a diverse and growing region, brimming with history, culture, music, education, civic engagement, and amazing outdoor recreation. I love finding the stories and voices that reflect what makes NoCo such an extraordinary place to live.
Brad Turner is an executive producer in KUNC's newsroom. He manages the podcast team that makes In The NoCo, which also airs weekdays in Morning Edition and All Things Considered. His work as a podcaster and journalist has appeared on NPR's Weekend Edition, NPR Music, the PBS ڱhour, Colorado Public Radio, MTV Online, the Denver Post, Boulder's Daily Camera, and the Longmont Times-Call.