ڱ

© 2025
NPR ڱ, Colorado Stories
Play Live Radio
Next Up:
0:00
0:00
0:00 0:00
Available On Air Stations
Global demand for food and fuel is rising, and competition for resources has widespread ramifications. We all eat, so we all have a stake in how our food is produced. Our goal is to provide in-depth and unbiased reporting on things like climate change, food safety, biofuel production, animal welfare, water quality and sustainability.

Sago, An Ancient Chinese Starch, Endures In Asian Cooking

Pearls made from sago starch are common ingredients in Asian desserts and savories.
iStockphoto.com
Pearls made from sago starch are common ingredients in Asian desserts and savories.

Long before rice became the mainstay of Asia, prehistoric people in China turned to sago palm for starch.

Chinese researchers this week in the online journal PLOS ONE that they had found traces of sago palm starch on stone implements excavated on the southern coast of China. The tools were used to prepare food about 5,000 years ago (back around when farmers in the region were also soy). They speculate that because people in this area had abundant supplies of sago, it took them longer to switch to rice as a staple crop.

That news tidbit from archeologists in China got us to wondering who's eating sago these days. A lot of people, it turns out.

Sago, which is made from the interior of sago palm trees, may no longer be subsistence fare for China, but it's still relied on a a staple in some parts of Papua New Guinea.

Sago also gives that gelatinous special something to desserts and savory dishes throughout South Asia.

Sago wraps pork in this Thai disk, kanom sago.
/ iStockphoto.com
/
iStockphoto.com
Sago wraps pork in this Thai disk, kanom sago.

The starch is often processed into pearl-like orbs, and those orbs often end up in soupy desserts, like the Chinese with taro root and coconut milk. The , which is sweetened with palm sugar, sounds like a much more delicious version of the tapioca pudding I ate as a child.

That's not surprising, since tapioca, which is made from cassava root, and sago are both bland and starchy.

But the two starches will cook up a bit differently, as Australian chef Kurma Dasa reports in his sabudana khichari. There, the sago stands in for grains that are avoided on Hindu fasting days.

Then there are Papuan , which involve mashing the sago with bananas, wrapping the dough in leaves, and boiling them.

Thailand brings us wrapped in translucent sago dough.

And in some areas of Malaysia and Papua New Guinea, people still rely on sago as a , preparing it as a fermented paste.

Where can you find sago in the U.S.? Thanks to immigrants who've demanded a taste of home, it is available in many Asian stores. You can also find it for sale in bulk .

Copyright 2020 NPR. To see more, visit https://www.npr.org.

Related Content